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Versilia and the Apuane Alps, between Sea and Marble

Perhaps if in Versilia, the far north-west of Tuscany bordering on Liguria, squashed between the sea and the mountains, there hadn’t been the Apuane, the first part of the Alps about 40 kilometres long and consisting for the most part of purest white marble, Michelangelo wouldn’t have become that genius of sculpture that we know. He himself joked that he was raised on marble dust dissolved in the milk of his nurse, who came from the Apuane. The sculptor scrambled up and down the rugged peaks, searching for the most perfect statuary marble, teaching the quarrymen, as he himself recounted, “the art of quarrying the stone”. He was extremely unhappy when the Pope, who had called him to Rome, forced him to use a marble which came from another part of Italy.


07 - Versilia and the Apuane Alps, between Sea and Marble

Still today the marble of Apuane mountains, is used by the greatest sculptors in the world, artists like Henry Moore, or like Fernando Botero and Igor Mitoraj who actually live at Pietrasanta, the artistic capital of the Apuane. The main square of Pietrasanta is in fact transformed in summer into a splendid outdoor gallery featuring the work of a famous sculptor every year. Its numerous atelier, where for many centuries the craftsmen of the marble have given body and soul to artists’ sketches, attract young artists from all over the world to learn the art of working with marble. In these workshops reigns a tidy untidiness, everything is covered by a gossamer-like white dust and the air is filled with the deafening noise of pneumatic hammers and chisels. On the shelves, in rows, stand “plaster casts” of all shapes and sizes: Christs, Madonnas, angels, hands, feet, scale models and also full-sized Davids or other masterpieces of Michelangelo, used to make perfect copies, ordered by some rich and eccentric client from Hong Kong or from Texas. Higher up, in the quarries, some open to a height of 1700m, the atmosphere, even dustier and noisier, becomes metaphysical, almost surreal.

Able to be reached only by jeep or in a four-wheel-drive truck that crawls at snail’s pace along the “marmifere”, extremely dangerous tracks hacked out of the rubble of the marble, that zig-zag along the sides of the mountains crossing heart-stopping chasms, ...

... the quarries are themselves gigantic Cubist sculptures under the open skys.

In the blinding reflection of the naked marble, which virtually prevents one from being able to see into the distance, down to the sea and coast of Versilia, every day the quarrymen - hard men, savage, with black faces, skinned by the sun, powdered with marble dust - risk their lives. A poorly placed mine, a chain from the machines which cut the marble that breaks, an out-of-control caterpillar, a foot placed carelessly that becomes a fall into nothingness. The population of Versilia and Garfagnana, the valley that runs along the north face of the Apuane, have always had to pay a very high price in human lives to the quarrying industry. A never-ending war between man and mountain that every year demands the payment of a painful tribute.

The environmental costs are also high, as the increasingly rapid and indiscriminate proliferation of the quarries in the whole area has dramatically altered the natural morpholgy and the wild beauty of these mountains.

In recent years, however, reflecting the advances in quarrying technology, fortu-nately underground quarrying has been practised more and more frequently, thus reducing the environmental damage. Moreover, the recent creation of the National Park of the Apuane has introduced a series of constraints that should go some way towards regulating the quarrying and encouraging a more touristic use of the resources of the area, a paradise for anyone who loves the mountains and wishes to explore a still uncontaminated nature, extremely rich in native flora and fauna.

Nevertheless the marble industry remains, together with the summer tourism along the famous beaches of Viareggio or Forte dei Marmi, Versilia’s principal income.

In winter, in Viareggio, there is also the fantastic and exhilarating Carnival, which in February attracts large numbers of tourists who come to see the processions of large allegorical carts decked out to represent that year’s most relevant themes of political and social satire

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